TEKNIK FOKUS
1. Manual Focus
Technology makes manual focusing very easy because it is usually possible to enlarge the image on the screen so that you can see the precise spot that you are interested in, and then adjust the focus until it is perfectly sharp.
2. Single Shot Autofocus
Often abbreviated to single autofocus or single AF, this camera focus option sets your camera to focus when the shutter release is depressed half-way and to keep the lens focused on the selected subject until the shot is taken and the button is released. If you need to refocus you have to lift your finger off the shutter button and then depress it a second time. Single focus mode is useful for static subjects such as still life and landscapes.
3. Continuous Autofocus
When this camera focus option is selected, the camera will continue to focus the lens as long as the shutter release button is half-pressed, or the AF button is pressed. This makes it a very good option when photographing moving subjects because the camera will adjust the focus distance as the subject moves.
4. Automatic Focus Point Selection
When you are focusing automatically you need to have the active AF point over the subject in the viewfinder to get it sharp. However, your camera will usually try to focus on the closest object near the centre of the frame and it's not usually very good at pin-pointing smaller subjects or fine details. For this reason, it's often better to set the AF point yourself.
5. Manual AF Point Selection
Setting the AF point yourself gives you the maximum level of control over where your camera focuses, and it's a good option for landscape, still, life and portrait photography when you have time to operate the necessary camera controls.
6. Face Detection AF
When Face Detection AF is activated you'll notice boxes appearing around peoples' faces on the camera's LCD to show that they have been recognized. Half-pressing the shutter release brings the faces into focus ready for the shot to be taken. As you might imagine, Face Detection AF is extremely useful at parties and social gatherings when you want to get lots of people pictures.
7. Focus And Recompose Technique
Camera 'focus and recompose' technique comes in very handy and it can be quicker than selecting an AF point. This also a useful focus technique to use in low light, as the outer AF points tend to be less sensitive than the central one. When using this camera focus technique, the camera must be set to a single AF mode. If it is set to continuous AF, the camera will refocus the lens on whatever subject is under the active AF point when you recompose the image.
8. Back-Button Focusing
It is especially useful when using this back-button focus technique to photograph moving subjects that you press the AF button without locking the exposure settings until the point at which you want to take the image and press the shutter release home. This focusing technique allows you to see the subject sharp in the frame and only take the shot when the composition or lighting is just right. It also means that if something moves into the frame, another player when shooting sport, for example, you can stop the focus from being adjusted by taking your thumb off the AF button, but continue to take photographs.
9. Hyperfocal Distance Focusing
It is designed to get the maximum amount of a scene sharp at any given aperture. The traditional way of using it is to focus on the subject and then use the lens' depth of field scale (or a tape measure and depth of field tables) to find out where the nearest acceptably sharp point is. This point, where the depth of field starts in front of the focus point, is known as the hyperfocal point. Once the hyperfocal point is found/calculated, the lens is refocused to it so that the subject remains sharp and greater use is made of the depth of field.
10. Focus Stacking
Focus stacking is a digital technique in which several images taken with different focus distances are combined into one image that is sharp from the foreground all the way through the background. Although it can be applied to landscape photography, it is especially useful for macro photography because the depth of field is very limited when subjects are extremely close. With the camera firmly mounted on a tripod, take the first shot with the nearest part of the scene in focus. Then, without moving the camera, refocus just a little further into the scene and take the second shot before focusing further in again. Repeat this until you have a shot with the focus on the furthest part of the scene.
0 comments:
Post a Comment